Intramuros
Intramuros, surrounded by thick walls at the bank of Pasig River, is the oldest part of colonial Manila, founded by the Spanish conquistador Miguel López de Legazpi. Intramuros used to be the undefeatable centre of Spanish colonial power in South-East Asia. Neither Chinese pirates nor Dutch colonialists were able to conquer the Spanish fort. It eventually did fall in British and later on in Japanese hands, but the buildings managed to survive the changes of power. However, at the end of World War II, American bombs ravaged Intramuros to the ground. Only parts of the walls survived the American bombing. All buildings were destroyed but some of them later rebuilt according to original plans.
Intramuros is reachable by Manila Light Rail Transit service. You can walk from Intramuros from Central station. You will notice a golf course on the way from Central station to Intramuros. The atmosphere behind the walls of Intramuros is completely different than in other parts of Manila. There is virtually no traffic and the streets are peaceful, except for rather pushy pedicab drivers who want you to take a ride with them instead of walking.
Some parts of Intramuros feel almost like Spain. The houses are built in Spanish colonial style, the names of the streets written on ceramic tiles, and we spotted a few Spanish-style horse carts. However, turn around the corner and you will most probably see a row of typical Filipino eating places, a tricycle parking and simple dwellings of the locals, Filipino women doing laundry in the front, surrounded by half-naked kids.
While in Intramuros, visit Manila Cathedral. The cathedral was completely destroyed by American bombs in World War II, but it was later rebuilt according to the original plans.
The main attraction in Intramuros is Fort Santiago, a former Spanish fortress and a former centre of Spanish military power. Fort Santiago stands on the bank of Pasig River. The grounds of Fort Santiago are pretty and taken good care of. There are fountains in the park and several spots with benches and tables where you can rest in peace before returning to the chaotic streets of Manila. There is an entrance fee for Fort Santiago grounds.
Quiapo and Chinatown
Quiapo is one of the oldest merchant quarters of Manila. It is reachable by Light Rail Transport system, get off at Carriedo station.
Quiapo is always bustling with life. There is an interesting birds-eye view of the streets below from Carriedo LRT station. The streets are flooded with stalls selling everything from fruits, clothes, shoes and snacks to pirated CDs. Quiapo was extremely crowded when we visited on a Saturday morning. Many locals head to Quiapo on Saturdays, hunting for bargains.
The main historical sight of Quiapo is its church, built in European style. If European sights are not what you are looking for in Manila, simply venture into the side streets of Quiapo and enjoy the exotics. You need at least half a day to explore Quiapo thoroughly.
Manila's Chinatown is located just next to Quiapo so it is easy to visit both places in a day. Shops, restaurants and signs in Chinatown are completely different than in Quiapo. Small private shops sell Chinese pottery, Buddha statues, traditional Chinese herbs and teas, restaurants serve typical Chinese dishes, all signs are in Chinese. If there was no endless stream of Filipino jeepneys in the streets, you would have thought that you were somewhere in China.
Quiapo and Chinatown can be visited with minimal planning. It is best to get lost in the streets while enjoying the exotic sights, sounds and aromas. Try some food being sold at the stalls, get a cup of coffee at a local coffee shop, and chat with locals. You will discover more about Manila this way as compared to reading any guide. You will start understanding Manila more and who knows, it may even grow on to you. However, you absolutely have to stick to three important rules when exploring Manila. First, always do it during daytime, second, do not let the locals lead you away from the streets and third, try to at least vaguely remember where the LRT station is as being lost in these parts of Manila isn't fun.
Malate
Malate, a lively quarter next to Manila bay, was once the centre of development of modern Manila. However, with the development of Makati City, a super-modern financial, trading and entertainment district of Manila, Malate was left behind. There are still many hotels in Malate, although most of them look rather tired, like majority of buildings in Malate does. However, there are a few good-value mid-range hotels in Malate as well as a few flashy 4-star and 5-star hotels. Malate has a great selection of restaurants: from FIlipino to Korean, Japanese and Thai. There is no lack of American fast-food joints, pizzerias and Mexican restaurants in Robinson Place shopping mall, occupying a few blocks right in the centre of Malate. Last but not least, exciting Malate nightlife is well-known among locals and foreigners alike.
Malate is an interesting part of Manila to get acquainted with Manila social life. Get there before sunset and take a stroll along Manila Bay. After enjoying the colourful sunset over Manila Bay (which is so colourful precisely because of the Manila smog that you hate so much), hit the streets of Malate and hunt for some food. A dinner will probably be followed by bar-hopping around Malate and we bet that you will sooner or later end-up at LA Cáfe, the most notorious, infamous bar of Malate. LA Cáfe is a favourite spot of Manila expats and locals, open 24 hours, and completely packed every single evening of the year. You may enter LA Cáfe alone, but chances are that you will leave with someone. That applies for males and females, foreigners and locals, as in LA Café you never know who is fishing who.
Makati
Makati is the pride of Manila, a prospering financial centre of Manila with wide avenues, high skyscrapers and flashy shopping malls. Residents of Manila wish the whole Manila would look like Makati. It never will. With every new glass and steel skyscraper new squats spring up at the suburbs of Manila - the areas of the poor who come to Manila to make money but they never manage to.
Ayala Center and Greenbelt are the largest complexes of shopping malls in Manila housing numerous restaurants, bars and discos. Ayala Center and Greenbelt are perfect places for spoiled tourists who want to shop, dine and have fun in a comfort of air-conditioning and do not care about their credit card limit.
Makati has the greatest selection of good hotels in Manila. Makati hotels tend to be more expensive than hotelsk elsewhere in Manila, but they do offer more comfort. And comfort is something that every visitor of Manila wishes for.