Kert means a garden or courtyard in Hungarian and kerts really are places that sprang up in courtyards and gardens of usually abandoned buildings in various stages of decay. Some of the kerts are open only during summer while others can be covered during winter and thus stay open year-round. Many of the kerts seem to be only half-legal and under perpetual pressure of local residents complaining about the noise so it is never clear whether any of the kerts will actually reopen in spring or whether it is going to be on the same location as the previous year.
Some of the kerts that managed to become a permanent addition to Budapest's nightlife include:
Szimpla kert
Szimpla kert (Simple kert) is one of the oldest alternative watering holes in Budapest located in a courtyard of an old residential building in the centre of Budapest. Szimpla kert has achieved the legendary status among all the kerts. It's been expanded and equipped with a roof which makes it possible to stay open even during winter.
Szimpla kert is extremely popular with locals and expats. If you are into kerts, then Szimpla kert should be the first kert to visit. Keep your eyes wide open when looking for it. The small door at Kazincy utca 14 don't give any clue of the treasure hidden behind.
Location: Pest VII, Kazincy utca 14. Transport: metro M2 (Astoria). Web: www.szimpla.hu
Pótkulcs
Pótkulcs (Spare key) is much smaller than Szimpla kert. When arriving at Pótkulcs you get the feeling as if you just got to somebody's private garden party. Apart from the garden there is indoor space where occasional concerts take place. Pótkulcs is in the centre of Budapest, near Nyugati train station. You can only find it by the address, there is no sign in front of it, just a small door in a concrete fence.
Location: Pest VI, Csengery utca 65/B. Transport: metro M3 (Nyugati Pályaudvar).
Nagy West-Balkán
Nagy West-Balkán is a newer addition to Budapest's kert scene. It's bigger and more expensive with regular concerts. Despite its location is not right in the centre of Budapest it is popular and packed on weekends. There is outdoor and indoor space, hence Nagy West-Balkán stays open year-round.
Location: Pest VIII, Futó utca - Corvin sétány. Transport: metro M3 (Ferenc körűt), tram 4, 6 (Üllői út). Web: www.west-balkan.com
Holdudvar
Holdudvar (Moon courtyard) is a pleasant summer garden on the Margaret Island. Although based on the model of kerts it doesn't have much of a kert feel to it. First of all, it is not in a courtyard of a dilapidated building in the heart of Budapest but under the treetops of Margaret Island. Also, the chairs and tables in Holdudvar are 'standard' compared to proper kerts where guests can often sit in old socialist armchairs and sofas.
Holdudvar is certainly worth the effort of getting to. it is an ideal place for relaxing drinks after a hot summer day in Budapest. Holdudvar is only open during summer months.
Location: Margaret Island, Transport: tram No. 4, 6 (Margit sziget). Web: www.holdudvar.net
Corvintető
Corvintető (Corvin's roof) is one of the newest kerts in Budapest, which actually isn't a kert, but more like a terrace. It spreads across the roof of the old Communist department store Corvin. Szimpla kert regulars still prefer Szimpla to Corvintető, although they do admit that every now and then it's nice to have a drink and a chat on the roof of the former department store.
Location: Pest VIII, Blaha Lujza tér 1-2 (entrance from Somogyi Béla utca). Transport: metro M2 (Blaha Lujza tér), tram 4, 6 (Blaha Lujza tér).
Kuplung
Kuplung means a clutch, the name being chosen due to the fact that it is located in a former motorbike mechanical workshop. Kuplung is smoky and lively, drinks are cheap and patrons mainly students and foreigners. There are often pieces of modern art exhibited in Kuplung. At one of the occasions we visited there was a huge whale skeleton hanging down from the ceiling.
You will find Kuplung only by its address - there is no sign outside. When you get to the correct street number, cross the courtyard and enter the place through small shaky doors in a wooden wall.
Location: Pest VI, Király utca 46. Transport: tram 4, 6 (Király utca).